Incredible Photos: Two Dogs Escape a Burning Building

On Monday, two dogs faced a horrific situation in McMinnville, Oregon. Nobody was home, their apartment was on fire, engulfed in flames, and they were badly burned, huddled on the second floor balcony. 

The Pit Bull mixes, Simba and Brandy, had nowhere to go but down. Firefighters had just arrived and began fighting the fire when one of the dogs made his decision. He climbed on the railing, balancing himself, and then jumped. The second dog wasn't so sure, so a fireman went up on a ladder and removed some of the railing. The second dog jumped. 

The images were caught on camera by Dan Belderrain of the McMinnville Fire Department.

After the dogs jumped, they ran off, and Animal Control was only able to capture them later that day. Unfortunately, they were badly burned, but they are undergoing treatment at the McMinnville Veterinary Hospital. However, with the owners newly destitute because of the fire, the hospital has been forced to donate much of the cost of medications and staff time, according to the News-Register. 

Veterinarian Aaron Sears says the cost could run into the thousands of dollars, and the clinic is asking the public for help. It has set up a donation fund at Chase Bank, under the account name "McMinnville animal welfare," and donors may specify that they are donating for the care of Simba and Brandy.

Sears says that the burns are extensive, and some are "severe." Simba is able to walk, but he is in pain. Brandy is not yet mobile, according to the News-Register, and has burns on 30 percent of her body. Sears expects a complete recovery, however, albeit a lengthy and costly one. 

What You Need to Know for Traveling With Your Dog By Plane

Dogs may have been one of the first mammals in space (remember Laika?), but it doesn’t mean that taking them on an airplane has become any easier. There’s a lot of planning involved with taking a dog on holiday, both mentally and physically. It’s not a choice to be taken lightly, and due to the amount of time that’s needed to plan, it’s often not a great choice for a long weekend away.

If you’re going to take a dog away with you, you need to get ready well in advance. Adding your dog to the family holiday can’t be a last-minute decision. 

Here's what you need to know to have a great time flying with your dog: 

       First things first: Can your dog fly?

The first judgment you need to make is whether your dog can cope with a plane trip. There are some legal restrictions on dogs flying: The very young and the very old aren’t allowed to fly, nor can pregnant or ill dogs. Some breeds may face particular discomfort when flying, such as those with shorter nasal passages, like Pugs or Boston Terriers. If your dog may safely fly, then you need to judge his mental strength. It will be a stressful time, and if you think he’ll spend the entire journey terrified and whimpering, then leaving him with a pet-sitter, trusted friend, or at boarding kennels would be the kindest thing.

Make sure your travel carrier is airline-approved and that your dog fits

 in it comfortably.

       Do your homework

Once you’ve established that your dog will be able to fly, you need to prepare him for his destination. Check what vaccinations he has to have and make an appointment with a vet. This needs to be done around seven to eight months in advance. You’ll need to have a certificate of health, usually verified from around a month before arrival, but some countries demand one as recent as 24 to 48 hours before the flight.

Find an airline that’s happy, and equipped, to take dogs onboard. Some are great, and will have their own pet flying guidelines, but make sure you read reviews and ask around. Read the airline's policies and regulations as often as possible, as rules can change quickly, and record all conversations you have about bringing your dog, just in case it goes wrong on arrival. It may also be worth bringing a copy of the section of the airline’s policy that covers animal travel, just in case officials aren’t entirely sure.

Your dog may actually enjoy flying. 

You’ll also need to get your dog used to the crate he’ll be flying in, so spend lots of time (and treats!) playing in and around it at home. You want to make sure he’ll be happy spending a long time in it, and that he’s comfortable and safe in there. Sedation is a possibility, but you should check with your vet first, as it can sometimes have adverse or stronger effects at high altitudes.

Some airlines will let you transport your dog in a carrier stored under the seat, though these flights are usually limited to domestic journeys. Airlines that do allow pets to travel in the cabin include Air France, Air Canada, Lufthansa, and Swiss Airlines. Others, such as Virgin Atlantic, British Airways, and Qantas, require any animals to travel in cargo. Each airline has individual weight restrictions and crate size requirements, so make sure you read these carefully, especially if you have a larger dog.

Guide dogs and other kinds of assistance dogs are often exceptions: Usually passengers will be given seats near the front, so no matter how big the dog is, he can be kept with his person. However, it’s imperative to check before you travel, as not all airlines will be happy to accommodate this or even think to give extra space for a large dog.

Your dog may be allowed to travel in the cabin with you.

Making the flight easier

Try to choose direct flights, to save your dog from being bundled around between airports, as well as picking flights that won’t land during the coldest or hottest part of the day. There are strict regulations about how long an animal can stand in severely hot or cold weather, and you need to adhere to these.

Choosing the right crate is especially important. It needs to meet regulations set out by the airline, as well as be comfortable for the dog. It isn’t recommended to feed your dog while you fly, to save upset stomachs, and water is best stored as ice cubes. Make sure you have every bit of information attached to the crate, including all of your travel details and a 24-hour feeding plan, as animals and their owners are sometimes transported on separate planes.

       On the day of travel

While you should be making the most of your preparations before the flight, there are plenty of things you can do on the day to make the journey as comfortable as possible for your dog. To minimize chances of an upset stomach, don’t feed him for around two to four hours before the flight, though water is fine. Take him on the longest walk you can. A tired dog is more likely to be peaceful (and sleepy) once on the plane than a dog bursting with energy. Most important, make sure you can take him out for a toilet break at the last minute.

Ensure your dog and his crate has plenty of identifying information. Use everything from a collar to a microchip, just in case the two of you are separated. 

Know the symptoms for motion sickness. It should dissipate once your dog is back on the ground, but if you’re still worried, get to a vet as soon as you can. The main symptoms of motion sickness include excessive drooling, yawning, whining and crying, nausea and vomiting, shaking, shivering, pacing and unsure footing.

Taking your dog away with you, whether you’re relocating, traveling, or going on a special holiday, can make for the best time away, as long as you make sure you and your dog are both prepared, relaxed, and ready to go.

Get Off! How to Discourage Your Cat from Jumping on Counters

If you have been reading a bit about feline behavior, then you should know by now that cats and discipline don't mix; in other words, you should never punish your cat. Cats are not dogs and you simply can't take your cat to obedience class… That said, sometimes you need to lay down some rules in the house and get an educational point across to your cat.

Punishment, in the human ethical and moral sense of the word, does not work with cats. In this article I'm going to try to explain the negative reinforcement principles of one common behavioral issue: cats jumping on counters.

This article will show you how to discourage your cat from jumping on kitchen counters and what techniques should not be used. If you're not in the mood for big words and long sentences, just skip to the last technique: surface covering. It's the method of choice, as it's both effective and non-stressful for your cat.

Why Do Cats Jump on Tables and Kitchen Counters?

Before you even begin teaching your cat to stay away from certain places, let's look at the causes for this type of behavior. Cats require a sufficient amount of living space, including enough vertical space. So before restricting your cat from accessing some areas, make sure that your kitty has plenty of roaming and climbing space within your home. Invest in cat trees, cat gyms and designated cat shelves. This stage is crucial! Giving your cat very little climbing space will result in a stressed and frustrated kitty and even more behavioral issues down the road.

Using Negative Reinforcement with Cats

Once you've made sure that your cat has enough space (vertical space included), it's time to learn how to teach your cat right from wrong and "explain" to her which surfaces are off-limits. Since we are trying to prevent a certain type of behavior, rather than encourage one, we'll have to use Negative Reinforcement.

Remember, we are not talking about punishing the cat! We are simply trying to create a certain connection in the cat's mind by associating undesirable behavior with a negative outcome. .

Before I review the various methods for achieving this, there are three principles to keep in mind when attempting any kind of negative reinforcement with your cat –

Keep the human out of the loop - We want to make sure that the cat associates the negative result directly with the action we want to prevent – never with you, the cat owner.

Keep the reinforcement consistent – This is true of any behavioral learning process and is crucial when it comes to negative reinforcement. It means the cat has to receive a negative reaction every single time it attempts the behavior we wish to discourage.

Keep stress levels down – Remember that cats are individuals and may have different reactions to sudden sounds, or any other type of sensory stimulation you may opt to use. Aim at making the unwanted behavior result in something unpleasant, but make sure it's not too frightening and doesn't cause your cat unnecessary stress.

Here are two options that are to be avoided:

       1. Water Squirting

This is probably one of the best-known techniques of negative reinforcement. The idea here is for the cat owner to always be on guard, ready with a squirt bottle.

If you take a look at the principles outlined above, you'll see that water squirting is not a good method for negative reinforcement.

First, it could possibly associate you with the punishment. Ideally, anyone using this method should try to attract as little attention to her or himself as possible. In reality, this is extremely difficult to achieve, as ‘hiding’ and squirting is really problematic and also most owners project their own nervousness and agitation into the process.

Secondly, in terms of consistency, this method is far from perfect. It's difficult to be on the alert at all times, or even around at all times, and you end up with having a non-consistent pattern.

Thirdly, and probably most importantly, the water spray is too stressful for most cats. Fourthly, it could very well make them frightened of water.

       2. Can Shaking/Compressed Air Can

Another well-known technique, it involves an empty soda can with some coins in it, or even a compressed air can. It relies on making a loud and disturbing noise to disrupt the cat’s activity.

It has most of the problems associated with water squirting: You, the ‘can shaker’, can be seen as the source of the negative reinforcement, there is a big problem with continuity, and of course, it can create a strong stress response in many cats.

In both of these instances you could end up with a stressed cat and a multitude of behavioral problems.

Booby Traps: Common but Problematic

Another popular negative reinforcement technique is booby trapping the area you wish your cat to avoid. One way to achieve this is to prepare a few empty soda cans, fill them with some coins or beans, and tie them one to the other. Then, place them on the edges of any high surface that you wish to keep your cats from jumping on, such as the kitchen counter. Should your cat jump, the cans all tumble down creating a loud racket.

The mousetrap version of the same idea entails setting up several wooden non-baited mousetraps, and placing them upside down on the surface you wish your cat to stay away from, and then cover them with a sheet of newspaper or even a towel. Should the cat jump on the counter, the triggered trap snaps with a loud noise, scaring kitty away.

Booby trapping surfaces like this has the advantage of getting you, the owner, out of the loop. The loving owner is never associated with the loud noise produced by the mousetrap or line of cans. It is also more consistent, as you can set up your booby trap and leave the room.  Your cat will still create the negative reinforcement if she or he jumps on the counter.  However, if you are away there is a consistency problem as it will only work once before you reset it.

The downside of booby trapping surfaces like this is that the surprising noise can be too startling for some cats, and again, you could end with a stressed feline instead of a trained one. 

So what is the answer? 

Here’s a good option:

Surface Covering 

The idea is to make the surface that you wish to keep your cat away from uncomfortable to walk on. This can be done by using plastic carpet runners with points up, or using some double-sided adhesive tape. You don't have to stick any of the tape directly on your counters. What worked best for many of my clients was taking a thick plastic sheet and covering it with double-sided tape, creating their own homemade sticky mat. Then, whenever they were not using the counters, they would cover them with that sheet of plastic.

When taping directly on surfaces, we would usually use regular adhesive tape, creating small loops of tape, with the adhesive on the outside of the ring, and then placing/sticking them across the surface. This would create a similar effect of a sticky surface, but easier to lift off the surface than double-sided tape.

The end result is the same: The surface becomes uncomfortable for cats to walk on. They may jump once or twice, decide they don't like it, then jump off. Usually within a few days to a couple of weeks, the cats would stop jumping on the treated surfaces altogether, at which point you can take off the adhesive tape/sticky mat.

With this method you get very consistent negative reinforcement, as your cat will get a negative reaction generated every time she jumps on that surface, whether you're around or not. In fact, you, the cat owner, are completely disassociated from any discomfort caused. As an added benefit, there is no startling factor here, no loud noise or sudden movement.

This is the right way of teaching cats to stay off counter tops. It does take some effort, but you will end up with a trained cat without creating new behavioral problems.

The Solution that Works for You and Your Cat

Negative reinforcement can be very effective as way to teach your cat what not to do. Hopefully this article has provided a better understanding of how negative reinforcement works and why some methods, such as water squirting and booby trapping, should not be used.

Remember you must always provide your cat with plenty of space, including appropriate vertical space for climbing and jumping. Only then implement the sticky surfaces method. Be consistent and give it time. Some cats can take up to three weeks to stop trying.

Can Cats See Ghosts?

When a cat stares off into space, is he thinking deep thoughts, trying to remember where he left his favorite toy or could it be he’s seeing a ghost? It’s unnerving right before bedtime or when a cat stares out of a lighted room into the dark hallway. 

What is a ghost? Janice Gilligan, animal communicator, says, “I think of ghosts as spirits stuck in the physical world, attracted to places or energy sources, as opposed to beings that have transitioned and choose or have the ability to continue relationships with their loved ones.” 

JellyBella says, “I don't know if it's ghosts or not, but Stan and Bella are always staring at things I can't see. Of course, our house was once a funeral parlor, so I guess there may be a few "late" guests passing through!”  

“Cats are very sensitive creatures. They hear and smell things beyond our ability,” saysCheylink. 

Gilligan agrees, “Consider the electronics ghost busters use, devices that amplify what our ears are incapable of hearing. They use lights, meters and thermometers. Cats are very self-aware and capable of evaluating their surroundings. They, like other animals, haven’t been programmed to rely solely on their five ordinary senses.” 

Cat ghosts? TTMom says her cat Penny came back to visit. “When Penny died we were living with my in-laws. When we moved back home, Toes looked all over the house for her. I started seeing cat shadows out of the corner of my eye. I even felt Penny get up on the bed.” Many owners experience similar experiences after a pet has gone on but TTMom had an actual sighting. “I was in the kitchen and saw Penny cross the living room and go down the hall to the back of the house. Toes watched her walk by and then took off after her. He came back and looked all over before complaining to me. All I could do was say, "I know. I saw her too."

Gilligan says, “I asked a cat if she was able to “see” ghosts. Her response was “We’re at least as able to discern presences as humans are.” I’ve sensed that cats aren’t always (or even, usually) napping when they’re in that sphinx position, eyes closed, relaxing in the sun. I believe they meditate. I think they experience the presence of a ghost on a more intimate level than seeing.”

“Lynx was on the vanity counter in my bedroom while I was getting ready for work. All of a sudden he looked over my shoulder. I turned and there was nothing there,” says Telynn. “His eyes were following something. It really gave me a creepy feeling. I've seen him stare at a spot on the wall before but I never felt like that. That morning, I really got goose bumps over it.” 

Whether you truly believe in ghosts or just know that creepy feeling of not being alone, perhaps the best attitude to take is the one Chausiefan used as a child. “Can some cats protect us from evil ghosts? I used to pretend that they could when I was a kid, just to help me sleep at night.” 

How Much Do You Love Playing Fetch with the ChuckIt?

They are ubiquitous in urban dog parks, like strollers at playgrounds or headphones on public transit. They poke their colorful stems from purses and tote bags, flying a flag to mark an afternoon of excitement. Arching across the space between a dog and her owner, it is a fishing pole with an invisible line that casts forth and then tows back a joyful, panting dog. The mere sight of the bag in which it slumbers is enough to run Ace in circles, her eyes fixed upon the object of her desire.

I’m talking about the ChuckIt.

If you don’t own one, you’ve probably seen it: a plastic ball launcher with a long handle that allows even the most clumsy of dog owners (me) to send a ball soaring effortlessly across the grass or sand. All hail its sublime power!

Because Ace loves nothing –- indeed, nothing -– more than to fetch, the ChuckIt is a regular part of my weekend routine, as much as my favorite pair of broken-in sneakers. For the uninitiated, the skeptical, and even for other devoted ChuckIt groupies, I will expound upon my love of this simple, reliable tool of doggie fun.

       A variety of sizes

So many of the dog products I review are limited to use by dogs of a certain size. TheChuckIt covers dogs from the Chihuahua to the Great Dane and every size in between. For the smaller-mouthed of our canine friends, which includes Ace, the ChuckIt Sport 14, which holds the size-small balls, is perfect. These balls are smaller than a tennis ball, and the ChuckIt is molded to perfectly scoop and throw this miniature size. The Sport 14 is designed and made of the same quality hard plastic as even the largest ChuckIt, the Sport 26. ChuckIt also offers launchers with a “control grip” handle for the medium- and large-sized balls. Ace is able to cram a medium into her mouth if she’s playing with her larger friends; it is the same size as a tennis ball.

       A variety of balls

I keep Ace away from tennis balls, which can grind down a dog’s teeth if they play fetch as obsessively as she does. ChuckIt offers a vast array of balls that fit into their launchers. Ace prefers the Ultra balls, which are made from durable rubber. They are easy to clean and are highly visible; the bright orange contrasts strongly with green grass. It also bounces well on packed dirt and even on grass, though perhaps next we will try the Fetch balls, which are described as designed for high bounce. I haven’t tried the other types of balls yet, but they look like fun. If you dog likes to play fetch in a lake or pool, they have several options that float!

       Clean hands, dirty maw

Fetch is gross. Ace slobbers on the ball; the ball bounces in soil, dirt, or sand; Ace picks up the ball, runs, slobbers, and lays at my feet a sticky, muddy mess. Multiply that by 50 or more throws, and all the hand sanitizer in the world won’t make me feel clean. The ChuckIt eliminates the ick factor by allowing you to pick up the ball with the launcher itself, directly off the ground. The ball easily clicks into place and launches without difficulty. 

I have found it is helpful to knock off any large chunks of debris after picking up the ball but before throwing it. This prevents the ball from getting stuck in the launcher or showering you with whatever horror was stuck to the ball as it is launched. I just pick up the ball with the launcher and then gently knock the ball against my shoe, a fence, or the hard ground to dislodge the accumulation of pebbles or mud. I never have to touch it.

       The perfect throw

Fetch is an athletic game for humans as well as dogs, and I love how the ChuckIt makes it so much easier for me to keep up with Ace when we play. I can vary the kind of throw I give her: bouncy, high in the air, long, rolling. The stamina of my throwing arm increases exponentially.

While the ChuckIt makes me a more worthy opponent for my dog, I’ve never played a game of fetch where Ace didn’t outlast me -– this little dog is a tank.

       Dogster Scorecard for the ChuckIt Ball Launcher

• Quality: Made of hard plastic, my launcher is still going strong after almost two years of regular use.
• Style: ChuckIt sports a simple design in bright colors.
• Function: ChuckIt throws balls exponentially better than I do –- and I get to avoid picking up a dirty ball.
• Creativity: Shake up your typical fetch routine with a variety of ball choices, including balls that whistle, float, and glow.
• Value: For less than $15, you get a durable, reliable source of fun.

       Bottom line

Do yourself and your ball-loving dog a favor and go get yourselves a ChuckIt! Already have one? Maybe it’s time to mix up your routine with a different kind of ball.